Stitching Modes on Your HandiQuilter Longarm Quilting Machine
HandiQuilter longarm quilting machines have three stitching modes: manual, cruise, and precision. Each has a place in a quilter’s repertoire, but it’s important to know what sets the modes apart and when to use each. Together, let’s take a closer look.
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Many of the steps and skills to quilt on your longarm quilting machine are similar to quilting on a domestic: positioning yourself ergonomically, cleaning and threading the machine, checking tension. Even the process of creating a quilting plan is pretty similar. But when working on a longarm you move the machine, and you don’t use a foot pedal to control the needle.
Stitching Modes
Stitching modes are an important tool to use when doing hand guided quilting on your longarm. On a longarm, you use the machine stitch settings, not a foot pedal, to control how quickly the needle moves. Let’s learn about each stitching mode and when to use them while longarming.
Manual Mode
Manual mode is the only non-regulated mode. This means that the needle moves up and down at a constant rate (you can choose the percentage of max speed at which you’d like the needle to move), and the stitch length will be determined by how quickly you move the machine relative to the pace of the needle. This is kind of like using the speed slider on your domestic machine to set a constant speed when free motion quilting. The needle will move up and down at this constant rate, regardless of how you are (or aren’t) moving the longarm.
Personally, I’ve spent very little time in manual mode. I don’t use a stitch regulator on my domestic machines, but I enjoy it very much on my longarm. However, avid users of manual mode feel that it offers a smoother quilting experience, especially when stitching all over motifs.
Cruise Mode
Cruise mode is one of the two stitch regulation modes available on HandiQuilter longarm quilting machines. When engaged, cruise mode will move the needle up and down at the set stitches per minute (SPM) speed, even when you are not moving the machine. The needle will move faster, in order to achieve the set stitches per inch (SPI), when you move the machine to quilt. This keeps the motor constantly engaged, even when the machine is at rest, resulting in a smooth response when you begin moving.
I use cruise mode as my go-to when stitching all over designs. In general, any pauses I take while stitching a single motif are brief, so the slow stitching in place does not result in extra stitches. I like the responsiveness of the machine as I speed up or slow down. I don’t use this mode when doing very detailed free motion quilting (FMQ) or ruler work because careful custom quilting requires more pausing, and those slow, extra stitches will add up.
Precision Mode
Precision Mode is also a stitch regulated mode. In precision mode, the needle comes to a full stop when the machine is at rest and moves according to the set stitches per inch (SPI) when the machine is in motion.
I love precision mode when I am custom quilting. Any quilting plan that requires pausing to move my ruler, or slow precise stitches is a good fit for precision because of the superior accuracy it gives me while quilting. Always remember to move the machine slowly and not very far for that first stitch though, to avoid a “toe grabber” if the machine takes a moment to respond. Using precision mode while trying to stitch an all over design or while moving the machine too quickly may result in a broken top thread.
Final Thoughts
All three stitching modes are an important part of a quilter’s tool box. Practice using each in turn for various projects to feel the difference between them in how the motor of the machine responds and how the stitches are formed. You may even find that you use more than one mode on a single project!
